I drafted an extremely detailed and descriptive version of this post, but my editor felt it was long-winded and only mildly entertaining. So, here are a few of the highlights of my European adventures from the early 1990s. We lived in a castle about three hours outside of Amsterdam, first as students and then for me as part of the faculty a few years later. I saw 63 churches, toured 22 museums and took approximately 123 train rides, all of which had value, but the memories below seem a lot more interesting looking back.
Thanks to anyone who reads this for indulging my trip down memory lane…
• Cafe Vink is the only bar in the world where to this day I can walk in and they would know my name. It was a six-minute walk from where we lived, and needless to say, we spent a lot of time there. At the end of the semester we told Jos (owner/operator) that we’d stay in touch; he smiled and said that no one ever does. We drunkenly but politely disagreed, poured our own last beers, and haven’t spoken to him since.
• My work study job was chopping wood. Pete was the non-English speaking groundskeeper/surrogate grandfather at the castle who could roll a cigarette with one hand and loved to tell stories we couldn’t follow to save our lives. Though small in stature at 5’ 2”, he could fix anything as well as drink everyone under the table. Pete passed away a few years after we were there.
• If there is a New England Patriots fan club in Holland I am taking credit. During my time there, and in the years since, I have spread the gospel as well as the gear. Hats, shirts and newspaper clippings have made the Pats the NFL team of choice for the Dutch. (This may not actually be true, but there are at least a few converts to whom I’ve managed to show the light.)
• We played pick-up soccer against the local high school on Wednesday afternoons, and despite our local ringers, usually got crushed. I did, however, have my own World Cup moment, using my one burst of speed and a little intervention from above to blast home a goal that meant absolutely nothing. I got a nod of approval, and perhaps a bit of surprise from the opposition, which made it all worthwhile.
• The Dutch celebrate the Queen Beatrix’s birthday every year with a huge party in Amsterdam; crowd estimates are usually around one million. On “Queen’s Day” the streets are shut down, public drinking is encouraged and the canals are loaded with boats full of floating parties. In typical Dutch fashion, the Queen’s actual birthday is in the middle of winter, so they just decided to hold the party in April when the weather is nicer. What I remember the most, outside of a lot of drinking, is standing by what in America would be a cart selling sausages, but in Holland is pumping out herring covered in raw onions. No need for forks, knives or even napkins as the locals consider it finger food and down that thing in one gulp. It sounded gross then and even more so now, but at the time I remember thinking it wasn’t bad at all.
• I thought they were playing a trick on the American guy, but you actually do have to bring the cake to your own birthday party in Holland. There’s a traditional pastry called vlaai that was just over the top good; somewhere between a pie and a cake but with enough butter to clog an artery or two. I celebrated my birthday at least three times while I lived there. The Dutch are not known for fine cuisine, but they make some good pastry and they can deep fry the hell out of just about anything.
• We went camping for a few days on the coast on Holland. Three big guys, one small tent. Nothing more to say.
• We saw Jane’s Addiction in Amsterdam at an old church turned concert hall. The drum beat started slowly and grew louder and more intense for almost 45-minutes before they actually hit the stage; it was amazing to feel the tension building throughout the room. It would have been more amazing if we had planned ahead and gotten a hotel room. We stayed up until the first train back at 5 a.m. Truth be told, there are worse places to stay up all night than Amsterdam.


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I went to the Netherlands last year to visit one of my accounts in Hoogoorddreef ( about a 20 minute taxi ride from Amsterdam). I made sure that I booked my flight back to London several hours after my last meeting so that I could see the city that I heard so much about first hand..and it was anything but disappointing. Everything from the architecture to the canals, to the red light district and the “coffee shops” was mesmerizing. I was surprised how tightly everything was layed out. The streets are ultra narrow and the residences and very vertical. In fact when you walk by someones flat you can see everything that they are doing as it is Dutch custom not to have curtains so it is not construed that you are hiding something. Anyhow, I cannot wait to go back (WITHOUT THE KIDS) and if I ever find out that I have a week to live, I am going to give Amsterdam at least a day.
what else did you do in the red light district jj? any urges from cheech and chong?
My favorite place. I once pissed myself in Amsterdam. Details surrounding the event are quite foggy.
ahh, the ‘dam. been once, been twice. the first time over there I was living in Den Haag (Milosovic’s former hangout) and “studying” at the Haagse Hogeschool during my junior year at UNH. I still can’t believe the school (never mind my mother) let me do that study abroad. I made weekend jaunts via local train to Amsterdam just to cruise the streets and soak up the culture/scene. I even passed for a Dutchman at time with my limited handle on the language. I lived with two Dutch guys that were my age, one lived on the kitchen floor. the first night I was there, they weren’t ready to house me and tried to put me up in squatters’ quarters in an old office building that some of their friends were living in. I firmly declined, and that all worked out. the hardest part was explaining to the other international students what, exactly, brought me there in the first place. for some reason, my “i’m here for the architecture” alibi didn’t fly.
I was just there again in November ‘05 with a group of 15+ friends. we did the real-deal tourist thing, shared rooms at the Bulldog and all. it was fun, but i was way more tuned in to the commercial/tourist culture that the city thrives on, which made it somewhat less cool. fun city though. everyone should go at least once just to rattle the conceptions/stigma surrounding the use of “soft drugs” in our American society. for instance, as the Dutch bucksome blondes that came to UNH in exchange for my semester there argued: in Holland there’s no such thing as “binge drinking” as we know it. it just doesn’t go down like that. everyone is drinking at a young age, and since there’s no drinking age limit, there’s no real urge to go ‘against the rules’.
Responses to this post from the guys I was with included reminders of incidents such as the use of fried fish sandwiches to settle your stomach (it didn’t work and no it wasn’t me), ice skating on the moat (it snowed while we were there for the first time in seven years), smoking weed in the Dragon Tower (while planning a Passover Seder) and something about the brothel next to the bar that was next to the Castle.
That’s right..Castle, Bar, Brothel…all within walking distance of a bunch of college kids…pretty smart, huh?